Tuber Storage & Growing Information
Upon Receipt: Open each individual bag and inspect every tuber. Before shipping, I inspect and take pictures for my records. However, if something was damaged during shipping or you have any concerns, please contact me at Sarahjane@willowrockacres.com.
Storage until planting: Once inspected and you have pictures, leave the bags very slightly open so excess condensation does not cause rot. Store them in a cool, dark, dry area (55° - 68° is perfect) until you are ready to plant outside. Do not store them in an area that could have temps lower than 35°. If your tubers freeze, they will be destroyed. A closet or other area works fine for temporary storage.
Planting: Dahlias do best when planted in soil that is an average of 60° Fahrenheit and not overly wet. If you have had a lot of rainfall the week prior to planting your tubers, I recommend covering the area with a tarp or other waterproof material to dry out the soil. Plant your tubers 4-5 inches deep with the sprout or eye facing up. Don’t worry if there is more than one sprout on different sides, or you accidentally plant with the sprout facing down; the sprout will naturally reach up towards the sun and warmth. If you accidentally break the growing sprout before planting, fear not. When a main growing stem breaks off, the tuber will send new sprouts in its place. This is completely normal. A good rule of thumb is to plant tubers around the same time you would plant tomatoes for your growing zone.
Watering: After you plant your tubers, do not water them until you see greenery peeking above the soil line. If tubers get too wet before growing roots they will rot and die. Too much water is your enemy when planting fresh tubers. Seeing growth above the soil line usually means there is an adequate root system established, and the plant can absorb water. There is a lower chance of rot once your tuber has an established root system. If I see a lot of rain forecasted immediately after planting my tubers, I will cover the rows with a waterproof material to keep the tubers from rotting due to excess water. If you choose to do this, make sure to remove that cover as soon as you start to get growth peeking out, so the sprouts have access to the sun. If you choose this method, make sure it is overcast as direct sunlight on tarps or visqueen can heat up the soil to the point of damaging your tubers. I only recommend this method as a helpful tip, please do research for your climate and make the decision if this is a good option for your growing conditions.
Pinching: Dahlias are flowers that thrive by being "pinched". This is when you remove the main growing stem after 4 or 5 sets of leaves. This tells the plant to push energy towards lateral sprouts and produces a bushier plant with many more blooms. Naturally this will add a few extra weeks before seeing blooms but will reward you throughout the entire growing season with up to 10 times the blooms with stems that are not as thick and easier to work with. There are many videos you can find on YouTube about pinching dahlias.
Fertilizing: I fertilize my dahlias with Osmocote slow release granules one time per season when the plants are approx. 12 inches tall (around the same time as pinching). I have a link to this and all of my favorite products here. This works well for me, but there are many options when it comes to dahlia fertilizers. Pick a fertilizer of your choice & happy growing!